The Beauty of Community with Saadia Naiman, co-owner of Aviano Coffee
In this month’s CULTURED, Style & Culture Editor ANNIE BLOJ interviews the co-owner of Aviano Coffee, Saadia Naiman. Saadia was photographed on location at Aviano Coffee on Detroit Street in Cherry Creek.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY ESTHER LEE LEACH
Annie Bloj: Saadia, it was so serendipitous to meet you at the photo shoot for this feature. I love meeting the people that have created some of the most beloved spaces and experiences in Denver. Your coffee shops have been the location for some of the most pivotal moments for me here in Colorado, including the first time Esther (Editor of Cherry Creek Fashion) and I met! Thank you for sharing your unique experience and story with the readers of Cherry Creek Fashion.
Saadia, you were born and raised in Colorado, and you mentioned that you didn't drink coffee when you were growing up. How did coffee find you?
Saadia Naiman: My grandmother who raised me was and still is an avid coffee drinker. While growing up, I gave coffee a try and did not like it. After that experience I was uninterested in coffee and never really gave it another thought until adulthood. It wasn’t until I met my husband, another avid coffee drinker, that I was coaxed into giving it another try. For my husband, drinking and going out for coffee was a very integral part of his family culture. During his college years, he spent a lot of time studying in coffee shops and coffee was an essential part of his daily routine. In 2005, my husband decided to open a coffee shop, and although opening a new business was exciting, I still was not keen on the taste of coffee. At first I was uncomfortable with my knowledge and understanding of coffee, but I went into it with an open mind and approach.
In 2005, Latte art in Denver was still new. It was unfamiliar, and at the time, every pour seemed amazing. When I saw how the barista could take an espresso, and by steaming the milk into a paint-like consistency, pour designs onto the top of the drink (latte art). I was intrigued, and it was the art and craft which drew me in. The idea that I could steam milk in a way that pulled the natural sweetness out, and then pour the milk with its velvet-like texture to make a beverage which not only tasted good, but was also a work of art, fascinated me. That combination of the craft and science of coffee was a perfect mix for me. I began a quest to learn everything I could about coffee. I learned how to properly brew and taste coffee. My science background enabled me to better understand the coffee and brewing process on a deeper level. I learned how to highlight and showcase the flavors and nuances inherent to coffee, and ultimately how to deliver this thing of beauty to the customer. I loved it.
AB: Aviano brought "third wave" coffee to Denver. Can you explain what that means and what motivated you and your business partner (and husband, Doug Naiman) to open a third wave coffee shop?
SN: When Aviano Coffee was opened in 2006, “Third Wave” coffee didn’t really exist in Denver. In our infancy we came to the realization that quality coffee in Denver was lacking. We made the decision we wanted to offer the best quality coffee available. One of several coffee roasters we got connected with was Intelligentsia Coffee out of Chicago. At the time, Intelligentsia was relatively unknown in Denver, but was at the forefront of the Third Wave coffee movement and pioneered the Direct Trade buying model (Intelligenstia’s buying model has its own set of criteria which includes seeking coffees of exceptional quality, verifiable prices paid to growers that is at least 25% over Fair Trade prices, farmer commitments to healthy environmental and sustainable social practices, direct relationships and partnerships with farmers, traceability and transparent disclosures of monies paid to farmers) as well as promoting the “In Season” or seasonality of coffee. Seasonality refers to the treatment of coffee as an agricultural product similar to fresh fruits and vegetables. Intelligentsia’s model emphasizes quality, transparency and traceability. We knew at the time we had an opportunity to introduce the Denver coffee drinker to something new and exceptional. We wanted to be a true Specialty Coffee shop. This meant making a commitment to quality at each and every step of the process from farm to cup. We understood with higher quality, we would be paying higher prices. We also understood there would be more training involved. Higher quality with highly trained and knowledgeable baristas is going to mean higher prices for the customer. This was something the consumer was not accustomed to, especially in the Denver market. We took this new idea of coffee quality and coupled it with customer experience and aesthetic, and we were able to deliver something unique, which was at the time, lacking in Denver.
AB: Initially, there was a push back about charging market prices for your coffee. When did you see the consumer's taste change and the demand expand to what it is now?
SN: In 2010, when we opened our store in Cherry Creek North and implemented market pricing for brewed coffee. At the time, market pricing for brewed coffee in Denver was unheard of. We eliminated batch brewing, and exclusively brewed all coffees by the cup using only manual brew methods. Initially, there was push back from the consumer and resistance from some staff. Both believed that what we were doing could not and would not work in Denver. In larger cities however, market pricing and manual brewing was already being executed with success. When we implemented this model, we had a few people tell us that we’d be closed, or out-of-business within two months charging “these prices” for coffee. But that commitment to quality and bringing something different to the Denver market was important to us, and we were unwilling to compromise or sacrifice our belief that Denver coffee could do better. This wouldn’t work however, if the customers didn’t have faith or trust in what we were trying to deliver. But they did, and our success can be attributed to our customers' open-mindedness. Not only did they begin to think of coffee in new ways, but in a very short amount of time they actually sought out our higher quality product. Some of those very customers who used to tell us that our model wouldn’t work, are now some of our most loyal and consistent customers today. In addition to the high-quality coffee, we invested in high quality tools. We brought in some of the best coffee equipment available at the time. Over the following three years, after we had gained success with market pricing and manual brewing, we started to see manual brewing and market pricing spread and be implemented in other shops around Denver. The customer was seeing it more, and their expectations for what they were looking for and expecting began to change and evolve.
AB: What is your favorite coffee drink right now? Where do you find inspiration for your unique concoctions and offerings at your locations?
SN: My favorite coffee drink will always be brewed coffee. Personally, I draw inspiration from the coffee itself. The fact that coffee is one of the most complex beverages that exists is fascinating to me. There is nothing quite like a quality coffee or tea beverage prepared well. We don’t attempt to cover up the beauty of the coffee itself, particularly in regard to brewed coffee. When creating custom beverages, we work to enhance the subtleties and the nuances of the coffee and tea itself. We place a lot of intention and time into making sure our coffee, espresso, and teas are dialed into the recipe, thereby consistently tasting their best. Creating the tastes and experiences our guests have come to expect requires substantial work behind the scenes on our part.
AB: The Aviano aesthetic attracts a clientele that is looking for a space that reflects their lifestyle. How does the design of your locations reflect the evolution of the customer?
SN: The aesthetics of our stores is one piece of the consumer experience. Our goal is to provide synergy in our spaces and we want the totality of the experience to be memorable. Customers are becoming more discerning and have high expectations of the places that they choose to frequent. They are looking for and want to be in spaces that are unique, different, and exciting. Of course, there will always be a few people who we encounter who will have a different view of what makes a pleasing aesthetic, or who are looking for a different experience, but that’s okay. We accept that there are other places which offer an experience in line with their view. For us, each space that we’ve had an opportunity to design has allowed us to improve upon and evolve various concepts which appeal to the efficiency of workflow, and the ever-evolving sophistication of the consumer. We always keep and carry over certain design elements that are associated with our brand, but then we dive into something new and audacious. The design process is a risk-taking process, and you never really know how something you produce is going to be received. It’s a risk to spend money on putting something out there creatively that is new and different. Generally, people are creatures of habit. They don’t like change. If they walk into something different or new, a system or layout they’re not familiar with, then they’re initial inclination is that of discomfort. Getting people out of their comfort zone and willing to try something new and different, requires a willingness to take a risk on their part as well. We want people to experience the hand-crafting and attention to detail we put into their drink. We want people to feel they received an experience that was worth every penny they spent, and we want them to come back for more. When we create a space no detail is ever too small to consider, but once we create something and release it out into the world, it takes on a life of its own. When we build out a store, even upon completion, it’s only about 75% finished. The final 25% are the people who gravitate to it and occupy it. That’s the most important design element, and what makes the space truly unique. Our customers and community are what breathes life into our spaces.
AB: As a Woman of Color in a mostly male Caucasian dominated industry, how do you hope to see coffee culture embrace diversity going forward?
SN: Coffee is a product of both black and brown people. Oddly, in this country, it is an industry controlled and maintained by people who are almost exclusively white and male. I’ve been a woman of color within a white, mostly male-dominated coffee industry/scene here in Denver since 2006. Until recently, I was one, if not the only woman of color at the ownership level within the Denver coffee industry for over a decade. The Denver coffee scene has exuded and been the embodiment of white male privilege from the beginning. Even though we were early adopters of third-wave coffee and our contributions to Denver Coffee have been important, I have been largely dismissed and ignored. There has been a conscious effort to exclude us in order to drive their white-male narrative, thereby keeping in place a structure of white privilege. I have been marginalized and made to feel unwelcome in the largely white male coffee rooms. It’s reached a point where I no longer put myself into those situations. White privilege in the Denver Coffee scene has been enabled and promoted by the local media, which has been inaccurate and exclusionary. While there has been the addition of some female-owned coffee businesses, Denver Coffee is still embarrassingly lacking in racial diversity, still exclusionary, and completely white-centered. This exclusionary club has centered coffee around themselves personally. Coffee has been around for a very long time and although we have moved towards new ways of doing things, the Denver media and white male-dominated coffee culture have propagated this idea that coffee was somehow invented or discovered by these white male groups - the Christopher Columbus of coffee so-to-speak. For us, we made it about the coffee and the experience, not about me personally. The media has also been unconcerned. This has only changed after the most recent BLM movement. In spite of the exclusion, I, as a woman of color, and many other people of color, put our heads down and go to work. When people try to prevent me from succeeding, that’s what ultimately drives me. In spite of the barriers placed in front of me by the industry, and the systemic racial obstacles which I have had to overcome, I was able to operate a successful coffee business. Any success I’ve had has been my own. Going forward, it’s my hope to see more racial diversity at all levels in the industry, and for the Denver media to be accountable for how they themselves have contributed to oppression and exclusion of people of color. I’d like to see the industry walk the walk, commit themselves to racial diversity, and work on ending the performative theater they put on for each other. Many within the industry need to stop tokenizing and fetishizing people of color for their own self-benefit. We need sincerity. The white-dominated aspects of the industry really need to sit back and listen while letting people of color speak for ourselves. The local industry needs to self-reflect and change.
AB: What is it about the ritual of coffee and coffee shops that creates an anchor for a neighborhood? How do you work to build community and inclusion into Aviano’s ethos?
SN: As humans, we are ritualistic creatures of habit. The ritual of coffee has gone back over a long time. People like to have a place where they can go and see or meet people they know. They also like to be seen, and to people watch. Business deals, dates, and many ideas have all been given life in a coffee shop. The coffee shop provides the perfect backdrop for a variety of interactions, all while enjoying a beautiful and delicious beverage. Since our beginning, the Aviano experience has always been about consistently providing everyone with the same great coffee, the same great experience, and a unique atmosphere reflective of their sophisticated tastes. We have never been the kind of shop that wants or tries to appeal only to a certain niche of people. We take great pride in the diverse customer base that our shops draw. As a business, if you operate from a place of integrity, where not only do you profess a belief in diversity and inclusion, but actually implement that belief, then you don’t need to talk about it, but instead you’re just about it, then that’s what’s reflected. We build and staff our stores, but the people breathe life into them. We’ve come to know many people, and have made a lot of friends. We have become part of the community, and the community has become part of Aviano. If we do our job correctly, then Aviano belongs to them, our community. During the COVID crises, the local community demonstrated a strong commitment and overwhelming support in keeping us as part of their daily lives. It’s through that daily ritual we were able to bring a sense of normalcy to many in our community, which means a lot to both us and them.
AB: What has the experience of Covid-19 taught you as business owners? So much of the coffee shop experience is about connections and conversation!
SN: I’ve learned through being in business, as well as in life, to expect the unexpected. Bill Gates once said, “Success is a poor teacher.” That’s a great quote. Our past failures helped prepare us for COVID-19. That’s not to say we weren’t fearful, but as a leader showing panic is not an option. I’ve learned it’s important to maintain composure if you want to instill confidence in those you lead. That way they can also move forward with strength and confidence. Despite fear, especially in a time of uncertainty, you put your head down and get to work. We were as proactive as we could possibly be, and quickly adapted our operation to continue to operate. The health, safety, and security of our staff was the first thing we thought about. Laying off or furloughing our staff was the last thing on our minds. We kept our team. With everything we did, we made it through because of our staff and the support of our community. They all came through. We have customers who made it their mission to come daily and support us. Our staff showed commitment. COVID brought out both the best in people and also the worst (we can see this in the media). Our personal experience has been overwhelmingly positive, however, and we’re grateful to so many people. Ultimately, COVID-19 taught us how important the support of our community is, as well as support networks.
AB: If and when we settle into our new normal, what are your hopes for Aviano’s future?
SN: It’s best to take this day by day and take it in stride. These are uncertain times, but if we can provide even the smallest sense of normalcy for our staff, customers, and community then that means a lot to me. We will continue to grow, learn, adapt, and evolve as a dynamic business while still staying true to our core values as a company. We hope to continue to be the anchor in the community where all people can connect and congregate over a great cup of coffee for many years to come.
AB: Denver has changed exponentially since you opened your first Aviano. What is exciting to you about all these changes, and what do you hope will remain the same?
SN: When we first started out, there were very few shops that offered a “third wave” coffee experience. I love that more people care about quality, transparency, and sustainability associated with products that they choose to buy and consume. More people are looking for and are supporting small local businesses, particularly independent coffee shops. Prior to 2013, finding craft coffee was a challenge. In contrast, Starbucks was everywhere. Drinkers of craft coffee would have to treat it as a destination point, which usually meant they had to make an inconvenient drive out-of-their-way. We’re thrilled that, over the last seven years, people have really taken to higher quality craft coffee in Denver. We believe we’ve contributed to educating and converting the consumer to craft coffee, and we can’t help but believe we’ve contributed to the local coffee scene through our efforts to introduce people to a new experience, as well as training for baristas. Today, nearly every neighborhood has a shop where you can get a good, well-crafted cup. With a large variety of shops, there’s definitely a shop for everyone. We appreciate, however, those people who have consistently remained dedicated to us, unwavering in their dedication and support.
AB: Saadia, thank you so much for speaking with me about your journey with Aviano. I know I speak for so many of us that are appreciative of your honesty as well as your forward-thinking approach to business and coffee culture. I look forward to so many good conversations at your Cherry Creek locations!