Jewelry Designer Aria Thomas of Eleux Talks Gemstones & Design
PHOTOGRAPHED BY JASMINE LAIRSMITH & KRISTIN RASHID (JEWELRY)
WRITTEN BY KOYA NYANGI
Koya Nyangi: Aria it's so great talking to you. I know you were interested in jewelry design from a young age. What drew you to jewelry, and gemstones? When did you first realize you wanted to pursue it as a career?
Aria Thomas: I think I was born with gemstones in my veins. There was no realization, nor moment when I chose to pursue it. At three years old, I saw my first mineral at a gem show and I was instantly hooked. You couldn’t pull me away from them. I picked up stones everywhere I went, eagerly wanting to understand where they came from and why they formed that way. In addition to my rock collecting hobby, I loved the arts. I participated in sculpture and painting competitions and found any excuse to create something with my hands. It was only natural to combine my love for stones and the arts. As other kids aimed to be an astronaut or firefighter, my dream job was to become a Gemologist.
KN: You are trained in gemstone identification, what is it about gemstones, as a material, that you love to incorporate in your jewelry? What are some other materials you use in your collections?
AT: There are more than 4000 discovered minerals in the world today. That’s a lot of gemstones to design with! From electric red rubies or calming blue sapphires, colored gemstones allow you to create versatile styles with designs that are beautiful and can really tell a story. Combining gemstones of different shapes, and colors together is my specialty and I enjoy profiling gemstones that are not seen often in fine jewelry. Most recently, the stone I enjoy working with most is opalized wood. It often has intricate patterns and colors such as bright turquoise blues contrasting orange or even oceanic landscapes as if they were painted on the rock itself. Because this material is a form of petrified wood, it is incredibly lightweight, so I can design an earring with other elements and gemstones while keeping it wearable for all day wear.
KN: As the world becomes more focused on sustainability and more lab-grown stones are being created, what steps have you taken as a designer to be more sustainable and ethical when it comes to sourcing?
AT: Colored stone engagement rings are an incredible alternative to diamonds. We’re seeing more and more consumers select sapphire engagement rings nowadays because of a perceived lack of transparency in the diamond industry. As someone who has always had an appreciation for gemstone origin, I believe that you should also know your gemstone’s story. For sapphire engagement rings I can provide an origin report with the stone’s entire life cycle. Where and when it was mined, when it was cut, and pictures of the rough gemstone. I love that with colored stones you can have the confidence of traceability while still supporting mining families and livelihoods. Also, there is a place for lab-grown stones in jewelry, but it’s important to recognize the energy-intensive nature of lab production. Moreover, the tiniest imperfections or inclusions within a natural stone isn’t necessarily a bad thing… it provides character and often add beauty.
KN: What type of person did you have in mind when designing the line? And what do you want them to feel when wearing your jewelry?
AT: My client is a woman that loves to be her authentic self and loves to show it. She doesn’t follow the trends of today, instead, she is a trendsetter. She is involved in the arts and looks for opportunities to reflect that in the jewelry she wears. The Eleux woman is confident and strives to be different. Her one-of-a-kind jewelry doesn’t define her, it complements her.
KY: Your jewelry line is beautiful! Where does the idea for a piece begin? Are there any particular influences to your designs?
AT: Thanks so much! Most designers would agree, that the source of design inspiration is infinite. I often take my inspiration from the gemstones themselves as if a story is yet to be told. Therefore, finding stones to be featured in a design is a critical first step. The piece I select must be rare or interesting in some way (color, texture, patterning, etc.) and then I draw inspiration from that piece to pair complimentary stones around that gemstone feature. After I’ve sourced all the gemstones for the piece, I start sketching out the design. I draw a lot of influence from nature and even the names of my collections are influenced from the world around us.
I have enveloped myself in jewelry from such a young age and so I have been exposed to many jewelry designers over the years. I’ve never been drawn to mass-produced or the more trending styles of jewelry. The designers I follow all create one-of-a-kind pieces, so no two pieces are the same. I found it inspiring to create a piece that’s completely individual and unique to the wearer and I wanted to create that same feeling for the women wearing Eleux jewelry.
KN: What is a big misconception when it comes to people purchasing jewelry?
AT: Your jewelry will give back to you what you put in. I think people underestimate the permanence of jewelry. Jewelry is amazing because it can withstand the test of time and be passed down for generations, but you must take care of it. A simple first step to maintaining your jewelry is to keep it in a soft pouch or box separate from other jewelry to avoid tangling or scratching. Additionally, a lot of people forget to take their jewelry to a store to check the prongs, stone security, or even clean it. We’re often so rough on our hands which causes our rings to go through a lot! So especially for an everyday piece of jewelry, like an engagement ring, it’s important to set aside time to look over your piece with a jeweler at least once a year to polish metals and check the security of your stones.
KN: What's next for ELEUX? What's your vision for the future of your brand?
AT: Eleux will continue pushing the boundaries of high fashion jewelry. I strive to create jewelry that’s authentic, timeless, and inspiring. I’ve been encouraged to open a brick-and-mortar, but the labor investment into each line and piece is extensive and at this stage, I instead want to focus on the design and development of transformative works of art. My focus is to shine a light on alternative gemstones by creating works of art and share them with the world.